Last Monday morning, I rushed my way to the airport despite my 3-hour sleep to gather with the Kompas Historical Tour Jejak Inggris Di Jawa (read more about it here). Mas Patricius Cahanar and Mbak Rica from the Kompas Book Publisher (PBK) welcomed me at 8.10 a.m. when I arrived, managed everything for me already.
Apparently I came the last, and they introduced me to six other participants, including Mr. Peter Carey and Mr. H. Witdarmono whom I already knew before. We were all given goodie bags with all the things we need, including the two books as the base of this tour: Inggris Di Jawa by Peter Carey and Perang Napoléon Di Jawa 1811 by Jean Rocher. Unfortunately Mr. Jean Rocher, the other speaker, couldn't join us due to his health problem.
We departed from Jakarta at 9.35 a.m. and arrived in Semarang around 11 a.m. Mas Richard from PBK picked us up with a medium-sized bus and we were dropped at Semarang Restaurant in Jl. Gajah Mada.
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| the memorabilia walls |
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| Mr. Jongkie's wall of fame |
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| check out the old-school cashier counter! so vintage! |
The owner, Mr. Jongkie Tio, greeted us and made us a mini-tour in his restaurant that is full of the city's memorabilia. The restaurant was built in the 1990s and apparently it's famous for its great food, friendly owner and his hobby of telling stories.
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| our lunch setting |
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| Lumpia Semarang |
Mr. Patricius opened the program with a brief speech, followed with Mr. Carey, Mr. Iwan Ong Santosa (the other speaker), and Mr. Jongkie. The latter told us the histories and legends of each food that he served us that day, which was all new to me.
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| Es Rujak |
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| Nasi Langgi |
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| iced fruits |
While they were talking, we had lumpia Semarang and es rujak (iced spicy fruit salad) for appetizer. The main course was Nasi Langgi, and the dessert was iced cut fruits. But I won't tell the stories that came with these dishes so you can ask Mr. Jongkie yourself when you meet him one day.
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| Wisma Perdamaian |
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| Mr. Carey, Mas Richard (PBK), Mas Iwan, the MC, and Mbak Mungi (PBK) |
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| the famous Lawang Sewu building is located across Wisma Perdamaian |
Our group expanded as the participants from Semarang joined us. The tour followed the journey of British troop when they came in 1811 as written in Mr. Carey's book Inggris Di Jawa, so it's a pilgrimage tour went first to Wisma Perdamaian at Jl. Imam Bonjol.
After that we went to the old Tanjung Mas Harbour to see the Willem III Lighthouse. The road was overflowed with sea water and ships were anchored along the way. It reminded me a lot of Sunda Kelapa Harbour in Jakarta.
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| on the way to Tanjung Mas Harbour |
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| Indonesian SAR boat |
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| Indonesian Navigation Service' ship |
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| The Lighthouse Willem III |
Indonesian House of Representative's ex-chief, Mr. Akbar Tandjung and his wife Mrs. Nina Tandjung, joined our group from here. We couldn't climb up the lighthouse because of the seawater flooded the first floor. So we carried on to the next spot.
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| The man on batik is Mr. Akbar Tandjung. His wife, Mrs. Nina, is the lady with straw hat next to him. |
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| the overflowed road we must go through |
And it was the Gereja Blenduk at Kota Lama area. It is a complex of art deco buildings left by the Dutch colonials. The Protestant church was built in 1753 and most of its interior is beautifully preserved. The original baroque orgel, however, is no longer used because no one can play it. Too bad, huh?
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| Kota Lama area |
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| One of the well-preserved heritage building |
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| The domed church or Gereja Blenduk |
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| The interior |
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| The baroque organ |
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| These seats are the originals, except for the renewed rattan and polish |
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| The altar and podium for pastor |
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| The original building plate |
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| The plate said this church was last renovated in 2002-2003 |
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| The staircase to organ room |
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| I just have to get a pose here! |
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| The side door and houses behind it |
We then crossed the Sri Gunting Park to get to Spiegel Bar & Bistro, which instantly became my fave café ever. It really feels like Europe in there. And they serve great coffee, too! Just what we needed after touring in the sun.
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| A student had her boyfriend photographed her with the vintage bike prop. People donate to get pictures here. |
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| This is a kind of flea market. Looks fun, right? |
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| These 'shops' sell antique stuff. It was good that I didn't have time to explore this. I'd shop otherwise! |
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| The entrance to the flea market area |
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| Statue of Semar welcomes the buyers |
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| If you see this spot, you're at the right place. |
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| The great Spiegel Bar & Bistro. Love it so much! |
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| A side road next to Spiegel Bar. Looks so serene! |
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| Inside the Spiegel |
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| If this is located around my house, I'd come at least once a week here!<3 br="">3> |
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| Image via @eldidito |
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| Mr. Carey was explaining stuff, but I was busy snacking and having my glorious coffee time |
We carried on by 4 p.m. and headed to South, passing Candi area (the highlands) where luxurious houses bordering the street. We arrived at Jatingaleh just on time for sunset. It was splendid and I was glad we had sunset. It's been a while since my last 'amazing sunset' -- LOL.
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| Wherever I go to (the well-preserved) Southeast Asia's China Towns, I get happy |
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| This area is too Instagrammable! |
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| Another building I like.. I'm not sure if it's still occupied, tho.. |
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| Four Doric added columns to the art deco church. Well.. |
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| the 'canopied' road we took to get to Candi area |
On the way, we had a quick stop to pick up Margie, another PBK writer who became my roommate in this trip (it's so curious how I could get another SanUr alumni to be my roommate within two weeks -- the first was Clarissa on my other trip.) I won't tell you what's so special about Jatingaleh so you can grab the book and read by yourself (or take the next Kompas Historical Tour), but I'll show you the magnificent view from up there.
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| The sunset |
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| I love the colour of the twilight sky! |
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| Me and Margie in the front line. Mr. Akbar Tandjung is behind us, walking between Mas Yudhi and Mr. Carey. |
After Jatingaleh, we visited Srondol and then checked in at Santika Hotel. Some of us wanted to take shower, so the rest of the group waited at Semarang Restaurant. Margie and I was in the latter group. We had a little shopping at the boutique while waiting for dinner time.
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| You may see this restaurant as a vintage one, but it worth visiting for the food and good talk with the friendly owner! |
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| The façade of Semarang Restaurant at night |
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| The outdoor dining area at the backyard |
We were served croquette for appetizer and lontong cap gomeh for main course. For dessert, Mr. Jongkie served us wedang ronde. Just like our lunch, each of these dishes tells its own story, but I'll let Mr. Jongkie explains it to you when you visit his restaurant (;
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| The creamy & cheesy croquette |
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| Lontong Cap Gomeh |
Some students from Universitas Diponegoro came, and the night discussion began. It was overall about Semarang's history, from different angles. Mr. Iwan Ong started by telling us the military background that you could read from Mr. Rocher's book Perang Napoléon di Jawa 1811. Mr. Jongkie Tio carried on, telling us about the fascinating stories about the city.
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| The speakers of Semarang |
Then a guest speaker, Mr. Singgih Tri Sulistiyono, continued by singing to us the pupuh (Javanese poetry) from Pangeran Panular's Babad Bedhah Ing Ngayogyakarta (which you could read the full version in Mr. Carey's book Inggris Di Jawa.) It was the first time I ever hear a pupuh being sung, and I think it was hypnotising in a beautiful way.
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| Mas Iwan, Mr. Carey, Mr. Jongkie, Mr. Singgih, Mr. Patricius |
Mr. Carey closed the discussion by playing us a documentary film by Dr. Farish Noor. As the first day's program ended, Margie and I asked for a photo with Mr. Jongkie, and it made us each given his very own book Semarang City: A Glance Into The Past (price Rp 300,000.) If you want to purchase it, just come to Semarang Restaurant -- don't forget to ask to meet the owner and he'll tell you anything you want to know about the city!
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| Mr. Jongkie's books are sold only in Semarang Restaurant -- or via online. |
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| me and Mr. Jongkie |
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| Mr. Jongkie signed a book for me! (; |
We finally went to our room at Santika Hotel, but couldn't do too much as we had so little time. The room was nice, despite looking a bit old. But the shower was all renovated. I had a great 5-hour sleep that night. Not bad actually, to be compared to my last trip's 3-hour.
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| Just in case you're wondering, this is the PBK's standard for accommodation. |
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| And the bathroom is really nice, right? |
Check out our second day's tour here and check for more pics at my Instagram.







































































































